Offshore Sailing trip to Lefkada Greece June 2024
Written by Offshore Sailing School grad and Colgate Sailing Adventures® Greek Islands Flotilla participant, Frank Passarge
Editor’s note, you will see references to Lefkas and Lefkada, they are interchangeable references for the same location in Greece. 
I have been to Greece before but was not sure where Lefkada, Greece, was located. I thought it can’t be that hard to get to and it’s a beautiful country, so we signed up for the trip. Fast forward to Saturday afternoon June 22, 2024. As people arrived at Lefkas Marina eager to board our “home” for next week, groups checked in at the Sunsail base and everyone started forming into small groups and introducing themselves. It was getting into the early afternoon, and it was hot. Greece is known for its spectacular sunshine and blue sky which means few clouds and less rain. It looked like it had been weeks since their last rain judging by the cars and trucks parked along the streets which were covered in dust and grime. No matter, soon we will be out on the crystal-clear blue water sailing the Ionian Sea. Most of the people were able to board our fleet of assigned sailboats ahead of the promised 6 PM time and we quickly looked around to see what we had on board, and what we were missing. Air conditioning was at the top of my list. We had three of the four couples on board and did our cabin assignments and started unpacking.
On the docks we caught up with Nate and Heather, our flotilla trip leaders for the week, and were given the update to meet at Mazi at 6 PM which is a local restaurant on the waterfront, a short walk away to gather for our welcome dinner. Our fleet consisted of six monohull yachts, with more than 40 people participating. I was curious how they were going to seat us. We ended up sitting inside at two long tables as appetizers started coming out from the kitchen. We ate and drank for over two hours. This was one of the best meals I have had at any restaurant in quite some time. All the groups were accounted for except one last couple that made an entrance at the restaurant just as the main meal was being served. Everyone greeted the late- arrivers with a loud welcome and we got down to finishing dinner. We were all accounted for and official; the trip was underway.
Sailing Day 1, Sunday June 23rd – The next morning the skippers and navigators met up with Nate to look at the local charts of the Ionian Sea where we would be sailing and reviewed the itinerary for the week. We returned to our vessels, updated the crew on the day’s plan and started final checklists by looking in every corner of the vessel for safety gear, switches, pumps, and anything else we may need to access. Food and supplies came the day before and were stowed. The sun was shining as we pulled out of the marina in the early afternoon on our way to Spartochori on the island of Meganisi which was about 12 NM south. Leaving the marina, we had a 2-mile-long narrow channel that all the boats had to follow to get out to the open bay. Once free of the channel markers, the groups were asked to practice backing up their vessels to help prepare for the dreaded med-mooring which is so common in Europe. Everyone that wanted to, took turns at the helm to practice backing up before we put up our sails and headed south. We arrived in Spartochori mid-afternoon, just in time for a swim right off the floating docks and for those with more energy, there was a small village just beyond the marina you could walk to, except it was 300 feet above the harbor. You could take a windy round up the steep hillside or as a few on my boat crew did, we walked up steps that took us to a beautiful overlook of the harbor as well as the island of Lefkada off in the distance. Heather had organized dinner reservations by boat at the local restaurant Porto Spilia which was just steps from the vessels. As soon as we sat down the waiter came over and asked us to get up and follow him so he could show us the available selections for the evening. This was a little unusual, but we all got up and followed him to see the showcase of food.
The restaurant had several glass cases displaying the various appetizers and main selections for the evening and a case where you could select your fresh fish if that was on your mind for dinner. We enjoyed another excellent meal sitting outside overlooking the harbor. I am sure there were late night activities underway on many of the vessels, but we will leave those stories for another day. 
Sailing Day 2, Monday June 24th – Our new rhythm was established meeting on board with Nate early the next morning and going over the plan for the day. Today we would cruise further south, about 20 NM to a town named Vathy on the island of Vathy. This was a little larger town than Spartochori with several marinas lining the banks of the harbor. Because of the harbor depths and available slips, we had to split up and dock in two areas a few minutes apart. The wind picked up as it seemed to do later in the day, so we had a test of our med-mooring skills with a strong cross wind, dropping anchor and backing down to a concrete wall. All the vessels made it in successfully but that did not foretell some excitement later that evening. Near dark, two larger sailboats with some well toasted guests were backing in for the night and they were not so successful. They made it in the first time, but their anchor was not holding so they had to reset later in the evening, well after dark. Let’s just say there was banging of boats and some yelling at the new arrivals. The port authority was called as we watched someone at the helm try to power the vessel into its place. Sometimes power is your friend but not tonight. Luckily, they gave up and dropped anchor in the harbor never to be seen from again (no Offshore boats were involved). Dinner was on our own and there were many family restaurants along the waterfront and in the alleyways around town to choose from. Getting a dinner table was never an issue unless you were starting dinner after 9 PM. Once the sun was down the local town population came out for dinner or an evening stroll with kids in tow until late in the evening.
Sailing Day 3, Tuesday June 25th – We were up early ready to leave the docks by 7 AM to go sailing. Someone official-looking came through late the day before, telling us we had to vacate as a large vessel was coming in and this was going to be a security zone. Some of us were skeptical and thought we would sit tight and see who got arrested first but thought better of it and left the docks promptly at 7 AM. There was little wind as we motored out of the harbor but got a nice show as a large sailing vessel called Sea Cloud entered the port. It was calm seas as we cruised close to the island looking at all rock outcroppings. Then out of nowhere as we got closer to the end of the island, nearer to the opening of the sea, the winds picked up to 20 knots. Sails went up and we had an exhilarating hour or so of sailing with everyone taking a turn at the helm. And just like that the wind died down again so we motored into our next port at Syvota which was on the southern end of Lefkada. We were loosely spaced as we neared the harbor. Heather was good at providing clear direction on where to dock for our next stop (name of the marina with a big red awning) yet one of the boat crews docked at another marina 100 yards away, not thinking a minute about where the rest of the boats were (we had six in total). After a few phone calls and sightings, the errant crew was found. I won’t mention boat names to avoid embarrassment to the skipper and navigator of said vessel. As is in many of the ports, dockage was free or low cost, but you were expected to eat dinner at the family run restaurant or tavernas as they are known in Greece. Another good meal and another pleasant evening with bars and shops lining the harbor and we visited well into the evening.
Sailing Day 4, Wednesday June 26th – On our fourth day, we were heading west to a small village on the island of Kalamos. We motored some and sailed some as we made our way to our next port. Heather let us know that it was a small harbor with low water near the entrance. The harbor master, George, would come out in an inflatable dinghy and guide us in. The vessel I was on was third in line and doing circles as our first and then second vessel entered the small harbor. I forgot I was in Europe for a minute as other sailboats motored up and went right in, jumping the line. I guess I could have pinched them off at the entrance but what was the point (not so in the morning as we were leaving. More on that later). We do, or at least talk of doing various drills like man overboard, med-mooring practice, knot tying. We learned of a new drill to add to this list. As we circled to enter Kalamos with fenders out and the dinghy pulled forward, someone yelled “is that our dinghy over there?” some 30 yards off our starboard bow, and it was. The first thing we did was look around to make sure no one else was looking. Next, we came up with a story to say this was a planned dinghy recovery drill if we were asked. Not sure who let the line go or did not tie the dinghy off properly, but we needed to get our dinghy as time was upon us to enter the harbor. It’s not so easy to grab the dinghy line that is below the water line, short of jumping in the water. There is no swim platform we can step on while underway and had to make a few passes, but we snagged the line and secured it to the errant vessel. The plan was to be in the harbor early to secure our spot. What we watched over the next few hours was sailboat after sailboat, with a mix of catamarans, pulling into the harbor, drop anchor, and back into every available space. George, the harbor master was not going to waste an inch of the harbor as he guided vessel after vessel in. No one was turned away. When everything settled down, you could look around and see boats three-deep. That was what you saw on the surface. What I imagined you could not see was the overlapping spaghetti of anchor chain layer at the bottom of the harbor, but that was a worry for tomorrow. This was picture night with our bright blue Offshore Sailing shirts. It’s no easy task to get 40 people raring to go to dinner to meet up and take a few pictures but this is not Heather’s first time, so she quickly got everyone in order and found a willing bystander to snap a few pictures. After the picture-taking session, it was off to dinner. Most went to George’s restaurant right on the corner. I noticed for the 3rd time, people that were helping us dock in the various harbors ended up working in the restaurant at night. Tonight was no different. I noticed George walking among the crowd surveying the diners to make sure everything was going smoothly. Another picture-perfect night rolling to a close.
Sailing Day 5, Thursday June 27th – The morning was sunny and warm as we turned on the engines preparing to leave. The question about the spaghetti chain at the bottom of the harbor was going to be answered shortly. Our boats started pulling out with the first vessel snagging an anchor line from across the harbor. As we waited while they untangled themselves, I looked across at the direction of our chain and was confident we threaded the needle and missed the latecomers’ anchor lines. As I started to pull out, others started to go, so I had to wait a few minutes and then another vessel jumped in, and I said we were next and started forward. I was free and clear, ready to go. As I pulled out ahead of the next vessel, we were yelled at from across the harbor that we needed to follow the reverse order from the night before. I thought it interesting that this morning was all about protocol and etiquette when leaving, but when entering the harbor it was a free-for-all. I motored ahead. Our journey today was to Palairos on the mainland about 14 NM away. We put up sails once we were in open water and made our way to Palairos. Once docked, we were trying to figure out how to get our electricity hooked up. They use a card system similar to a debit card, but we did not have one and spent time trying to track the dock hands down for information. This was siesta time, (before 6 PM) we would have to wait. Eventually we got our electricity hooked up and the AC running. During the frantic time of trying to figure this out, a gentleman named Thanasis jumped in the mix and said he could get us whatever we needed. He hung around long enough to hand me his card for his family restaurant just down the street. He was persistent and I said we may stop in for dinner. In the end, I think most of the boat crews made it to his family restaurant called, Tomorrow. We had another good meal. The next morning coming back from my walk, I saw Thanasis on his scooter and I noticed the Offshore Sailing cap on his head which he must have scored. He deserved it for all his hard work plying us into his restaurant and then serving an outstanding meal.
Sailing Day 6, Friday June 28th – This was it, our last sailing day. We were leaving Palairos, heading back towards Lefkada. The winds strengthened that morning as we crisscrossed the bay. The plan was to meet up at the entrance buoy at 2 PM. Every sailboat was trying to best the speed record. We heard 7.9 knots, 8.2 knots and we think someone clocked in at 8.4 knots. We tried and tried to beat the last noted speed. We came close but did not make it. We entered the channel as the winds picked up to 20 knots. Everyone made it back to safe harbor and started packing with some groups leaving early the next morning. Nate and Heather invited everyone to one last dinner where we enjoyed another fabulous meal in one of the town squares of Lefkada, a short distance from the marina. Nate thanked everyone for all their support during the trip and Heather had some door prizes to share. We even had one of the couples surprise the group and dressed up as Julius Ceaser and Cleopatra. Everyone had a good laugh and enjoyed their meal before heading back to our floating homes for the past week. It was sad we had to vacate them the following morning, just as we were getting into the swing of things in Lefkada, Greece.
When you think of taking a sailing trip from Greece or one of many other charter options, you must know it’s not just the sailing. It’s about meeting new people, trying new foods, and experiencing new and different cultures, living as the locals live albeit in an expensive sailing yacht. This was another wonderful trip led by Nate and Heather Atwater, Offshore Sailing School’s competent and fun flotilla trip leaders. I am looking forward to another one of the company’s Colgate Sailing Adventures flotilla vacations soon!
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